That right hander was super quick and shallow, it’s definitely the best wave around the island. We’d followed a storm up the river from another break, thinking we’d just have a look. We pulled up and it’s pissing down rain, about 4ft plus on the sets and pumping. The local groms were all over it, riding half boards, quarters of boards, boards with fins missing, no fins and even a kid on a full size “wahu” Kmart special trying to charge the bigger sets right out the back. In between sets they’d swap boards, body surf over the super shallow razor blade of a reef and laugh at us soft whitey’s with our booty’s and leggy’s! One kid had his own custom dug out canoe – sick!
The picture was taken on the end section after a solid speed run. Blow it up a bit and you can actually see the boils and how shallow it is. I was just doing laid over bottom turns into big speed hooks – absolutely frickin’ flying on my backhand! Lou told me later that if you make one mistake there or if you don’t commit totally no matter what the size you’re going to lose some serious skin.
That left is Nago. It’s got a decent take off on it, followed by a juicy middle section that you could just wind up on, and then on the bigger sets a solid short barrel on the end section. Pretty shallow at the end but once I got it sussed no dramas. This wave worked the most while we were there. Had a four hour session out there with just me and Payney one day. Sets were head high + and just rolling through for about 100 metres. This day was kid of pulsey – no sets for 20 minutes and then five 2-3 footers would come through, then nothing for another ten or twenty minutes. Not as good as Nusa Left but still heaps of fun though!
Video to come soon.
Thanks again for the magic 6”3 Dave!
Daz
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